We had walked for almost three and a half-hours and had met two other walkers and a group of German tourists taking advantage of the views from the top. Later we went into town and had a three-course meal with wine for just over twenty Euro. The sun was shining, people were sitting around enjoying that special half hour that lies sleepily just after dinner and before going back to work, the smell of spring was in the air. January on the Algarve!

People often come to stay with us, saying that they have avoided holidays on the Algarve as it conjured up for them images of crowded beaches, high rise apartment blocks and noisy nightlife. While this is true of some parts of the coast in summer time, nothing could be further from the reality of rural Algarve. Pretty white washed villages, orange groves, vineyards, ancient olive trees, relaxation, tranquility, interesting towns, local handicrafts, a window to a way of life that has changed little in centuries. And what about beaches? In less than fifteen minutes drive from our guesthouse here at Duas Quintas, you can choose from stunning rocky bays or long sandy beaches. And because we know the area well, we can steer our guests away from popular crowded beaches to less well-known areas, where, even in the height of summer, they are guaranteed space and comfort.

One of the biggest attractions of the Algarve is of course the weather. With over 3,ooo hours of sunshine per year and up to 6 hours on the average winter day, the Algarve is the ideal location for a winter break. The Algarve's summer climate is well known -long, hot sunny days, warm tender nights.

Location too makes the Algarve an attractive holiday destination -two and a half hours from most airports and an easy arrival into Faro's welcoming and uncomplicated arrival lounge. Once here, most holiday destinations are less than an hour's journey from the airport.

But this is only the tip of the iceberg that makes rural Algarve the perfect holiday destination.

Visit us in Spring when nature spills over in colour and abundance. Wild orchids, peonies, lavender, cistus all carpet the hillsides and roadsides to give a breath taking kaleidoscope of color and perfume. Stand still and spot the sparrows, swallows, house martins, hoopies and many others. Search out the kingfisher, the owl, the eagle and the sparrow hawk. Listen to the cuckoo by day or the nightingale in the evening. Be amazed by the variety of butterflies, their colour and intricate design; the noisy frogs and toads, the shy lizards that scurry for shelter and the playful geckos that come out in the evening light.

One of the Algarve's best kept secrets is its gastronomic delights. Portugal had a rich culinary heritage and the Portuguese people know their food and demand quality. Small cafes serve wonderful stews and grilled meals and fish. Seafood restaurants introduce you to a variety of shellfish unknown to most British and Irish people. And the delight is that the Portuguese just love to share all this with you. They will advise on food choice, show you the meat or fish in its raw state, suggest when a salad is needed or not and even liberate your cooked crab if you are not sure how to go about this operation.

Portuguese wines are finally being recognized for their excellent. Wines from the Alentaejo (the region above the Algarve) are the most popular on the Algarve, although Algarve wine is growing in popularity and rightly so. If you want to choose from further afield, there is the sensual Dâo or the unmistakable Bairrada. Let your waiter assist your selection, their knowledge comes from being part of a tradition where good wine is appreciated. A totally different experience is the light, slightly sparkling Vinho Verde that comes from the north of Portugal. This is excellent, chilled on a warm summer evening. Here in Silves, a lot of restaurants will serve a complimentary glass of Port at the end of your meal. If you are more adventurous, choose a Medronho, a local liquor made with a type of wild strawberry that grows on trees in the hills of Monchique.

The Algarve's calendar is dotted with fairs, festivals and 'festas'. The year starts with the elaborate New Year celebrations on the beaches of Portimâo and Albufeira. February or March brings Carnival, a three day celebration before the beginning of lent. There are parades all over the Algarve, but Loulé is the biggest of all. Each area has its own spring or summer fair. The Silves medieval fair in August is an outstanding event. Sponsored by the local council, the whole town goes back to its medieval roots, with snake charmers, belly dancers, pig roasts and jousting to name but a few of the spectacular events that run all week long. The organizers of the fair are committed to ensuring that everything is as authentic as possible and it really is a living history experience, enjoyed by people of all ages. Alongside the traditional events, there is a wide cultural program, with music, art and dance, often in stunning locations, which emphasize the beauty of this area.

Christmas on the Algarve is quite and peaceful. Since we arrived here, we have barbecued our turkey and eaten it outdoors, with the winter sun warming our backs. Follow that with a walk on the beach or a trip into the hills -the perfect way to end a busy year.